It’s tempting to go IN on your face when you check your makeup in the mirror and see a huge you-have-no-idea-what lump staring back at you. Dermatologists concur that a hands-off strategy is unquestionably the ideal when it comes to the majority of facial bumps and pimples under the skin. Bumps On Your Skin That Are Totally Normal.
According to board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, of Manhattan Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery in New York City, “popping anything causes your skin to physically split apart, making it more prone to infection and an even worse problem than what was there in the first place.” According to Noelani Gonzalez, MD, director of cosmetic dermatology at Mount Sinai West, if you don’t resist the pop, you’re also pretty much assuring scarring and a protracted healing period.
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The best move is to stock up on derm-approved, over-the-counter skincare products—or let professionals handle it in their offices with skin-safe lasers and gadgets you don’t have access to at home. The smartest treatment will depend on what exactly is causing your annoying skin issues—whether it’s a hard pimple underneath the skin or tiny white bumps on your face.
Here you’ll find all of the details you need on 15 common bumps—and a friendly reminder that you definitely should not be picking them.
It’s crucial to understand when to consult a dermatologist for advice before you delve in to identifying anything that might have appeared on your skin. Although you can develop conditions like acne and eczema well into adulthood, and new spots or bumps aren’t always an issue, Rebecca Marcus, MD, the founder of Maei MD, advises that your threshold for making an appointment should be rather low.
“You should seek the opinion of a board-certified dermatologist if you have a skin condition that is bothering you and hasn’t been easily remedied with an over-the-counter therapy,” advises Dr. Marcus. “Even though many skin issues are harmless, they can nonetheless cause someone to feel uncomfortable or self-conscious.”
She also advises scheduling a yearly skin cancer spot check screening in advance, visiting the office if you suspect an infection that will require antibiotic treatment, and coming to the doctor if a mole or bump has altered in appearance. It’s always better to be safe than sorry, and a dermatologist is the sole source for an absolutely certain diagnosis.
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8 Bumps On Your Skin That Are Totally Normal You Shouldn’t Pop
1. Cystic Acne Pimples
Cystic pimples occur very deep under the skin’s surface, forming a red, tender nodule that’s not only painful but much harder to treat with OTC meds. “The inflammation that accompanies cystic acne can hinder the healing process and often lead to permanent scarring that’s impossible to eliminate,” says Dr. Engelman.
Picking at these bumps under the skin won’t help either. “The cysts occur so far beneath the skin that you won’t even come close to reaching the bump, and you’ll be left with a bloody spot,” says Joel Schlessinger, MD, a board-certified dermatologist.
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According to Dr. Schlessinger, hormonal changes and acne bacteria are the main causes of cystic acne. “High hormone levels cause an excess of oil to be produced, which enlarges pores. This oil ruptures beneath the skin’s surface when it is unable to reach the skin’s surface, spreading inflammation to nearby tissue. According to Dr. Gonzalez, other factors include germs in the hair follicles and slower cell turnover in acne patients, which results in keratin buildups in the pores.
The treatment: Instead of going at it with your fingers, book an appointment with your dermatologist, who can properly treat the situation (usually in the form of a cortisone shot to instantly kill the swelling) and may even be able to save you from scarring altogether.
2. Milia
Ever notice how those tiny white bumps on your face (aka milia) refuse to pop no matter how hard you try? Well, rest assured. They are truly un-poppable—at least without a dermatologist or esthetician’s help.
The reason: Milia aren’t really covered in sludge, grease, or muck. According to Dr. Schlessinger, these are tiny, painless cysts that develop when dead skin cells become trapped under your skin. Dr. Schlessinger claims that picking at them frequently has little to no benefit and that trying to pop them will probably leave your skin red, itchy, and inflamed with the milia remaining intact. Ouch.
The treatment: “If it’s bothering you, schedule an appointment with your dermatologist, who will likely extract with a heated, sterilized tool,” says Dr. Engelman. You can also use a retinoid cream to help smooth them out faster, although milia generally clear up on their own.
3. Ingrown Hairs
Frustrating? Extremely. Worth picking—even if you just shaved your bikini line? Absolutely not.
The rationale “Ingrown hairs originate when the hair shaft becomes stuck beneath the skin’s surface,” says Dr. Schlessinger. Even if the subsequent red pimples are frequently uncomfortable and inflamed, it is never a good idea to use tweezers or manual force to remove them. Squeezing them won’t do anything but make the redness and inflammation worse, he explains. (Hello, intrusive, months-long red spots.)
Applying hydrocortisone, which lessens inflammation, itching, and redness, along with washing the affected region with an exfoliating cleaner will assist the hair grow through the skin’s surface. The dermatologist will nick the skin and remove the hair or inject it with drugs to lessen the inflammation if the painful bumps continue, advises Dr. Gonzalez. Pro tip: Don’t even try to deal with them. Shave in the direction that your hair develops rather than against it after exfoliating.
4. Skin Tags
The rationale “Ingrown hairs originate when the hair shaft becomes stuck beneath the skin’s surface,” says Dr. Schlessinger. Even if the subsequent red pimples are frequently uncomfortable and inflamed, it is never a good idea to use tweezers or manual force to remove them. Squeezing them won’t do anything but make the redness and inflammation worse, he explains. (Hello, intrusive, months-long red spots.)
The cause: “They often occur in areas of friction, like by the neck, underarms, and groin, and they are thought to be caused by skin rubbing on skin or on clothing,” says Bruce Katz, MD, a dermatologist in New York City.
The approach: Experts should handle this one, without a doubt. “A specialist can remove skin tags by snipping them off surgically,” explains Dr. Gonzalez. “They can also be removed by freezing them off (a procedure known as cryotherapy using liquid nitrogen). Additionally, according to Dr. Zeichner, if your skin tags are large enough to interfere with your everyday life, your insurance provider may even foot the expense.
5. Cold Sores
Unless you’re looking to inspire a whole army of these bad boys, don’t even think about touching them—no matter how much that cold sore looks like a pimple. “Picking at cold sores could very easily lead to the formation of another sore,” says Dr. Schlessinger. “Popping them releases a blister-like fluid that contains the same virus and can easily spread to other areas, including someone else’s face.”
The cause: The herpes simplex virus type 1 (HSV-1) and type 2 (HSV-2) are to blame for cold sores, and they’re crazy-common, says Dr. Gonzalez. Seriously—50 to 80 percent of U.S. adults have oral herpes.
With the help of over-the-counter drugs, small wounds can heal on their own (like this one). Dr. Gonzalez suggests seeking medical attention for more aggressive therapy and preventative medication if you have sores more frequently than six times per year, but only if you notice cold sores happening more frequently or spreading to greater areas.
6. Dermatosa Papulosa Nigra (DPN)
These brown or black bumps look like moles and occur on the face and neck primarily happen in skin of color. Dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, Connecticut-based dermatologist and associate clinical professor at Yale University says, “There’s no concern except those bothered by them cosmetically.”
The cause: It’s genetic. “There is no known cause at this point, but we know it runs in families,” says Dr. Gohara.
Treatment: Although there is no harm in having these marks, you can get them removed in-office if you don’t like how they look. This includes “scissor excision, shave excision, cryosurgery, electrodessication, curettage, dermabrasion, and laser removal,” according to Skin of Color Society. Just be aware that there is a chance that these procedures could result in skin pigmentation issues with deeper skin tones, so be sure to discuss a post-care plan with your dermatologist.
7. Keratosis Pilaris
“Squeezing or picking at these lesions causes worsening effects like redness and the potential for scarring as well,” says Dr. Engelman.
The cause: Often referred to as “chicken skin,” this genetic condition is caused by a buildup of keratin—the protein that protects skin, hair, and nails from infection and other harmful environmental toxins. “The buildup forms a plug that blocks the opening of a hair follicle,” Dr. Engelman adds.
Use a chemical exfoliant with salicylic acid and glycolic acid, or products like AmLactin, as a substitute for picking to reduce inflammation and gradually smooth out the bumps over time, advises Dr. Gonzalez. Dr. Engelman advises seeking the appropriate treatment from a dermatologist or esthetician if that doesn’t work. According to Dr. Gonzalez, available therapies include chemical peels, pulsed dye laser therapy, and the topical drug tretinoin (also known as Retin-A) to exfoliate the affected region.
8. Blackheads And Whiteheads
These might be some of the most commonly popped bumps—but keeps your hands off if you can.
The reason: According to Dr. Schlessinger, blackheads are caused by the same thing as whiteheads: oil-clogged pores. However, in blackheads, the oil has turned dark or brownish due to oxidation. Squeezing them might traumatize the skin and push the infection farther deeper.
To work the oil and dirt out without picking at your blackheads or applying pressure, use an over-the-counter exfoliant like Differin Gel. “It will work to bring the blackhead to the skin’s surface, leaving you with a fresh face in just days,” says Dr. Engelman.
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